This Saw fence is very strong and is adjustable enough to be extremely accurate. It is best to set your saw fence just slightly out of square with your saw blade. The far end should swing a tiny bit (1/32") away from the blade to prevent binding.

The main rail tube is 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" x 1/8" wall steel tubing. The fence tube is 2" x 3" x 1/8" wall aluminum tube.

This saw fence design assumes that you have extension tables mounted to your table saw to allow the support of full sheets of plywood. It is general practice to allow a few inches past 48" for the tube to the right of the blade. I recommend running it out to 54" on the right and at least 24" on the left.

The 3 bolt lock design works very well and after 4 years I have yet to have to readjust the fence because it slipped. The pivot bolt hole should be drilled very close to the 3/8" diameter of the bolt. The 7/16" holes give about 2 degrees of play over the length of the fence. If this is not enough adjustment, I might recommend remounting the main rail tube. I would also suggest a drop of loctite (not the permanent type) on the locking bolts to prevent vibration loosening.

The main locking bolt should be smoothed on its end so it doesn't chew up the floating plate.

The plastic card can be made from any clear plastic that is durable. A piece of face shield would be an excellent choice since it is Lexan. To prevent the alignment mark from being rubbed off I suggest scraping a groove in the plastic and then filling that with a sharpie marker.

For the CAD-enabled, you may download the .dxf file here.